This is a distraction build from my late model Camaro. I recently attended the Jalopy Showdown at Lincoln Speedway in Abbostown PA and I came home inspired to build a 34 Ford Jalopy. My inspiration is this photo dated 1953. A bare bones California Jalopy. I'm using an AMT body on a Revell 37 pickup frame and running gear. I cut the center X member out of the frame, pinched the frame rails to fit the body and reattached them. I also relocated the rear crossmember to postition the rear wheels correctly. The wheels are a combination of AMT 36 center sections and Revell 37 outer sections. The backing plates and radiator are 40 Ford resin items. I scaratchbuilt all the crash bars from 1.6mm rod and the toe board from sheet styrene. The seat is a resin item I've had for years. I mounted the 37 steering box on top of the frame using a beefy bracket mounted to the outside of the frame and detailed with HO scale railroad bolts.
Inspiration
(https://i.imgur.com/9xjdhly.png)
Removing the X member
(https://i.imgur.com/0r5QMAg.jpg)
Pinching the frame and reattaching X member with rear cross member removed
(https://i.imgur.com/Zt7V62e.jpg)
Modified frame on left. Stock 37 frame on right
(https://i.imgur.com/GpUhNfm.jpg)
AMT 36 Ford inner sections Revell 37 Ford outer sections
(https://i.imgur.com/3Pki8Ls.jpg)
Resin backing plates (40 Ford)
(https://i.imgur.com/wHvd6vb.jpg)
Cage almost complete
(https://i.imgur.com/0CSv5lw.jpg)
Mock up of body with radiator and hood in place
(https://i.imgur.com/zcyHGYU.jpg)
Detail of 37 Ford steering box
(https://i.imgur.com/49KwUSR.jpg)
Resin military style seat
(https://i.imgur.com/olQGm5o.jpg)
Detail of rear bumper and crash bar
(https://i.imgur.com/kTnTOFi.jpg)
You didn't say, but I am going to guess it will be Flathead powered. Really like your collection of parts to put this one together. How about a tutorial on how you did those wheels.
Quote from: David Bogard on June 03, 2019, 12:28:58 PM
Jalopies are the most fun builds possible since there are literally no rules. That era saw anything and everything and really was the golden era in many ways. Nice start on this jalopy!
I totally agree. You can get creative without worrying about being perfect. crude welds, clunky brackets and bars, minimal safety considerations. I love the raw homebuilt nature of these things. It's been a blast so far.
Quote from: TarheelRick on June 03, 2019, 12:32:16 PM
You didn't say, but I am going to guess it will be Flathead powered. Really like your collection of parts to put this one together. How about a tutorial on how you did those wheels.
Yes, basically the entire 37 pickup will be used without cab or bed. So it will be powered by a stock 37 stock Flathead with aftermarket headers and a stromburg carb. The wheels were made by taking the 37 Revell wheels and enlarging the center hole all the way to the small holes around the outer rim. I then took a 36 wheel and sanded it down to the edge just beyond the 5 lugs. carefully fitting and sanding as I went until the center section fit snug into the outer section. I then drilled a hole and added a piece of styrene rod into the center.
Quote from: David Bogard on June 03, 2019, 02:13:10 PM
Hey Rick, I believe Ron Coon has some nice resin rims that look like this also.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E4qFujxAyY5G.jpg)
Ron's 37 wheels are very nice. I have used them on another build and would highly recommend them. In the spirit of the homegrown jalopy, I chose to cobble mine together from the junkyard...I mean parts box.
Excellent build in process . Keep us posted on your progress.
I really like the way you are going about building this jalopy.
Bob
Jalopy cars are among my favorites too. This will be a good one I am sure.
Update:
After moving the rear crossmember forward, I realized the rear radius rods' mounting position on the torque tube needed to be moved back and the rods shortened. It's a hack job, but it fits now, and hopefully the ugly welds will not be noticed under the car. Pinching the frame also presented the problem of header clearance. I wanted to use the cool Fenton headers in the kit but I ended up making my own. I used evergreen rod and telescoped a piece of tube on the end, sanded it even to give it a slight megaphone shape. I'm happy with the headers AND now I have a set of those cool Fenton headers for a future build. I also made upper (not pictured) and lower radiator hoses and mounted the front lever shocks. It's getting close to having some paint on it.
(https://i.imgur.com/X81PYHJ.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/4c734Ty.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/UgWuIhr.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/RQN8Btk.jpg)
Very cool stuff. I learned a couple of things here!!! That makes this one even better for me!
Rett
Can anybody tell me why the door windows on these kits aren't completely opened up? That web at the rear of the door windows is puzzling to me. I have several versions of this kit, and only the very first one had the windows opened up.
Olderndirt
Quote from: Olderndirt on June 11, 2019, 10:16:36 AM
Can anybody tell me why the door windows on these kits aren't completely opened up? That web at the rear of the door windows is puzzling to me. I have several versions of this kit, and only the very first one had the windows opened up.
Olderndirt
It looks like the 5 window coupes were designed that way. I'm not sure what the thinking was regarding the design though. This is a pic I took from the H.A.M.B
(https://i.imgur.com/WeVCNir.png?1)
That is very interesting. I also wonder what the reasoning was for such a design. It must have been very common to remove this, because I don't recall seeing this on any hot rods.
Olderndirt
Quote from: Olderndirt on June 11, 2019, 05:20:54 PM
That is very interesting. I also wonder what the reasoning was for such a design. It must have been very common to remove this, because I don't recall seeing this on any hot rods.
Olderndirt
You can see it on this Rolling Bones built 5 window at Race of Gentlemen:
(https://i.imgur.com/oQx3Cuo.jpg)
A few more details added before I paint the frame:
I made some ribbed water hoses (still need to paint them) and I fabbed up a battery box behind the drivers seat. I also added friction shocks to the front and rear. The front ones are from the Revell 37 Pickup and the rear ones are from the Revell 29 pickup.
(https://i.imgur.com/AxoOBY9.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/fWMtYVn.jpg)
Good looking old jalopy! Your fab work is sure nice clean work. I like those radiator hoses. Are they just wire wrapped around the originals? The effect is very cool!🏁
Quote from: Greg Birky on June 21, 2019, 08:27:00 PM
Good looking old jalopy! Your fab work is sure nice clean work. I like those radiator hoses. Are they just wire wrapped around the originals? The effect is very cool!🏁
Thanks, The radiator hoses are 26 gauge jewelry wire wrapped around styrene rod. They should look like rubber after I paint them matte black.
Hey Thirdgear, I make hoses the same way, but instead of lining them with tubing I use Testor's windshield glue on a toothpick inside the coils. This is the same stuff model railroaders use to make small windows. You just get a gob of it on a toothpick and run it around the inside of the coil, and it will bridge and become a flexible hose. Works for air ducts also. Once painted they really look good.
Olderndirt
Quote from: Olderndirt on June 24, 2019, 10:17:31 AM
Hey Thirdgear, I make hoses the same way, but instead of lining them with tubing I use Testor's windshield glue on a toothpick inside the coils. This is the same stuff model railroaders use to make small windows. You just get a gob of it on a toothpick and run it around the inside of the coil, and it will bridge and become a flexible hose. Works for air ducts also. Once painted they really look good.
Olderndirt
Call me dumb but I'd like to see your way ODT!
Rett
Update:
The fabrication is done and I have moved into paint and detailing phase. I have installed the wheels onto the axles, painted the shocks, gas tank, and steering box, and installed the battery. I used a nylon tea bag for the pebble screen up front. I painted the body with Model Master Blue Angels blue enamel. Paint is kinda rough, but so is the subject matter. The body will be numbered and dull coated along with dirt weathering. I have also started detailing the flathead. It will get a nice dose of grit and grime as well.
(https://i.imgur.com/1mPbYgG.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/hAP1SJg.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/kEDcVqd.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/Seb0rUv.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/I14bMWx.jpg)
Rest;
Give it a try, it isn't like the components are going to break the bank. This stuff allows you to open wind wings, without having to deal with the too thick kit glass. Make great windows for heavily chopped coupes and sedans with "mails lot " rear, and side windows. It will bride enough to do a heavily chopped windshield to, but isn't really flat enough most of the time.
Olderrndirt
Quote from: Olderndirt on June 26, 2019, 01:45:19 PM
Rest;
Give it a try, it isn't like the components are going to break the bank. This stuff allows you to open wind wings, without having to deal with the too thick kit glass. Make great windows for heavily chopped coupes and sedans with "mails lot " rear, and side windows. It will bride enough to do a heavily chopped windshield to, but isn't really flat enough most of the time.
Olderrndirt
Thanks man!
Not to hijack the thread, but Testor's Window Maker is for really tiny stuff Rett. You will have to fiddle with it like crazy to get it to the maximum, which is only 1/4". It's best for use simply gluing in headlights or other smallish "clear" items or small outside chrome. Clear acetate is a better option for windows in our scale but if you must go with a clear drying liquid, Mod Podge from Hobby Lobby is much better because it's more "gooey" and will create a bubble much easier that spans small areas. It's essentially just watered-down Elmer's white glue in either case. Just didn't want you to go buy some of the Testor's stuff and think you can "make" windows of any noticeable size with it.
Hey Rett, I also wanted to add that regardless of whether you are Testor's or Mod Podge, there is a specific technique to "make" glass. PM me and I can shoot you a "detailed" description on it. And now. . . back to our regularly scheduled programming.
Rhett;
David may have some good points if you live where it humid. I live in California and was able to make all kinds of small windows, and windwings, just following the instruction on the package. But have a cousin that lives in Mississippi that can't get it to do much of anything. He's a pretty good builder, so I suspect it may be the humidity thats causing the problem.
Olderndirt
3rdGear;
Those wheels, and splined center wide fives, really make this build look the part. Nice clean build.
Olderndirt
Here are a couple shots of the seat and seatbelt details. I tried to replicate an aircraft style belt to go along with the aircraft seat. I'm not 100% happy with the silvering around the decals, as you can see in the second pic,. O well, ya live and learn.
(https://i.imgur.com/AyY0u8v.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/3jBquRF.jpg)
Looking good so far. Gonna be cool.
As for the decal "silvering"........ If that's flat paint, I've never had any luck with decals on flat paint.
I have heard, haven't tried it, that if you paint it gloss, add decals, then spray flat over that, it'll do better . IDK.
Quote from: Hondo on June 28, 2019, 05:07:56 PM
Looking good so far. Gonna be cool.
As for the decal "silvering"........ If that's flat paint, I've never had any luck with decals on flat paint.
I have heard, haven't tried it, that if you paint it gloss, add decals, then spray flat over that, it'll do better . IDK.
The decals were applied over gloss paint but there was a little orange peel in the paint. I usually use Tamiya cans for body painting, but I had a can of Model Master laying around. I didn't fuss over getting the paint super smooth like I normally do and the decals are a reflection of that. In certain light you can't really see it. I'm not going to worry about it, but learn from it.
I've learned that even dull coated beaters need to be built super smooth at first to get proper decal finishing. I do'nt fool with decal setting solutions, but I probably should.
I've had fits with some decals. Even with setting solutions they sometimes refuse to cooperate. Sometimes a little heat from a hairdryer can help, but again not always.
Out here on the left coast many of the early modifieds ran either a mud and snow tire on the right rear, sometimes a military non-directional tire, and often a regular tire with hand cut grooves. Oh, and whitewalls were not unheard of either. They made them quit putting snow chains on the right rear, for safety sake.
Olderndirt
A 1/25 scale knobby tire is hard to find. I suppose there are resin and 3d printed versions out there.
Yes, I've seen both, but of course the remembering where is the trick. You might try Fireball, they do 3D carbs, that are out of this world. But, I believe they make tires and wheels also.
Olderndirt
WOW WOW WOW! That is one beautiful jalopy third. I Watched many of these type of race cars growing up and you have nailed it perfectly. That is some beautiful fab work you have done. Also on the question of that web on the trailing edge of the window, that web is found on the 34's as the 33's did not have them. A friend of mine just completed a 34 Ford street rod and I asked him the difference between the two and that was just one of the differences the other is the 33 front grill is more abrupt and the 34 was more laid back. For clarity I also checked two of my reference books 1) Ford Chronicle by James M. Flammang, David L.Lewis and the auto editors of consumer guide, pages 76 -78 for 33's pages 79 - 81 for 34's and 2) Cars of the classic 30's by the auto editors of consumer guide, pages 139-140 for 33's and pages 179-180 for 34's. About the only models that did not have that web were roadsters, woodies, phaetons and trucks. Hope this clarifies things for you guys. While I'm here I want to wish you all a very happy and safe 4th of July, keep all fingers intact and get out and support your local race track.
Al
Thanks Al, Those old jalopies are a lot of fun to build!
There's not too much left before this one is ready for the track. I did notice that the 37 truck frame sits pretty high in the front. Not a huge issue for an old jalopy, but in retrospect I should have put a model A front crossmember in there.
(https://i.imgur.com/uQ2OoSA.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/F7Q16Hr.jpg)
Alright, now you've got me thinking that my next build will definitely be a jalopy! I've always been partial to them and seeing this one just makes me want to fire one up!!
Quote from: David Bogard on July 03, 2019, 01:23:01 PM
Alright, now you've got me thinking that my next build will definitely be a jalopy! I've always been partial to them and seeing this one just makes me want to fire one up!!
GO FOR IT! they are super fun
OK guys, the web on the 33 closed car doors is a very neat trick to allow ventilation. I cant remember if you crack the window crank in the opposite direction or just a little bit in the normal direction but it makes the glass move backwards before it moves downwards. That way you get an inch or so gap at the front of the window that gives you some ventilation on hot days.If you didn't have the web you would always have a gap around the back edge of the glass. Beautifully simple engineering from nearly a hundred years ago!
Loving your jalopy, third gear, but, yeah, I'd definitely drop that front a tad. Not that there wasn't a jalopy that high somewhere but she would look a lot racier!
Cheers
Alan
Thanks for the explanation on that '33 window web Alan. That has bothered me for a long time, and nobody seemed to know what the purpose was.
I agree the front is a bit high, but that was not unknown back in the day. What I don't see very often in models of old jalopies, and early modifieds, from back east, is cars radically jacked up on the right side, with much larger tires on the rear,and right front. The fronts were almost always leaned inward at the top of the tire as well. It likely is that most of the tracks in the Northern part of California are short in the extreme make these modifications necessary for running at speed.
Olderndirt
Update: I built some sweet little hot rod headers for this thing but they broke while installing the engine. (my dumb mistake). So since the engine was already in place I opted for these ugly flex headers. I actually like the home-brewed look of the flex tubes, as amateur as they are. They will get a fair amount of weathering after they are done.
(https://i.imgur.com/hZxTAev.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/uR8DmOE.jpg)
What did you use for those flex pipes? Very nice build.
Quote from: TarheelRick on September 18, 2019, 01:09:45 PM
What did you use for those flex pipes? Very nice build.
I wrapped styrene rod with beading wire.
This is about as cool as they come. Awesome work man!!!
Rett
This one is done. I had to take it around the bullring for some hot laps before taking pics. :)
(https://i.imgur.com/AEPrMaQ.jpg)
Simply Fantastic !
WOW, absolutely awesome build, Travis!!! Actually this entire build thread reads like a tutorial on jalopy building and I thank you for that!!! I've also been watching your YouTube videos!!! Great channel and lots of awesome content! I especially liked the video where you were talking about yourself and your modeling journey!!! Good stuff!!!
Quote from: Greg Birky on October 06, 2019, 09:17:59 PM
WOW, absolutely awesome build, Travis!!! Actually this entire build thread reads like a tutorial on jalopy building and I thank you for that!!! I've also been watching your YouTube videos!!! Great channel and lots of awesome content! I especially liked the video where you were talking about yourself and your modeling journey!!! Good stuff!!!
Thanks Greg!!
Fantastic jalopy build. Just excellent in every way.
Bob
You really captured the jalopy look with this one. It is one of my favorite racing subjects, and you didn't disappoint! Just the right amout of realistic looking weathering. I give it an 11.
Man...you nailed the look and feel of that era. Great job.