Started a dirt late model based on an AMT Nascar chassis. This will be a 'curbside' build. Hood probably isn't going to come off and it will be as technically incorrect underneath as can be, but I'm going for the look of a current dirt late model without the pain of scratchbuilding a complete tube chassis. To simplify things, I'm starting with the nascar chassis. I'm going to use all of the stock suspension mounting points to get it up on the wheels quickly and pretty much square with the world. This isn't the 'only' way to build, but thought some may like to follow along. I've combined quite a few techniques I've seen on our forums over the last few years and added one or two of my own.
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I started with a vacuform body from Ron Coon. Since the body is 1/24th scale, and I want to build 1/25, I cut the nose off and the sides off. I'm going to fab my own deck, this will allow me to make it a little narrower to get it to scale. The new deck sinks a bit in the middle, then slightly up to the rear. The deck and tapered filler pieces are made from .030 sheet styrene.
Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4737/39569897301_f927328801_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23hE4SD)20180106_191103 (https://flic.kr/p/23hE4SD) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4641/39569896041_23d1e238f3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23hE4uV)20180106_191122 (https://flic.kr/p/23hE4uV) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
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I'm going to make my own front spindles. This is going to make the front wheels poseable, they'll be tight and square and very strong to allow lots of handling. I start with the drill bits and plastic rod and tube shown below. The 1/16th and .080 are solid rod and you'll need a drill bit for each. The 1/8" and 5/32" is tubing.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4628/40145874032_5bf2eaa8d9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24ay6FW)20180209_212901 (https://flic.kr/p/24ay6FW) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
Start by drilling a 1/16th hole in the lower A arm where the kit spindle would go, then repeat for the upper A arms. We'll run the 1/16th rod (.062") through them for the spindle pin. The upper a arms are glued to the frame, including the tubular part where it just contacts the edge of the frame. Since it's a curbside, I don't care that the spindle is touching the frame there, I'm going for strength. Glue the lower a arms in also and run the bit through the align the holes.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4590/38673939785_f249906c56_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21Vu3Vg)20180106_192937 (https://flic.kr/p/21Vu3Vg) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
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(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4599/39540321072_ebabaa174f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23f3tTE)20180106_193033 (https://flic.kr/p/23f3tTE) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4726/38673936745_e4d8d39c6f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21Vu31R)20180106_193126 (https://flic.kr/p/21Vu31R) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4644/39569839601_14ea962a68_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23hDLHP)20180106_204035 (https://flic.kr/p/23hDLHP) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
Now to make the spindles. I wrecked a couple till I got the hang of it. Start by taking a length of 1/8" tubing and drilling a .080" hole in it. Then cutting a longer than needed piece of .080 rod, super glue it into the hole. After it's set up, drill the hole in the tubing out with your 1/16" bit so the spindle rod will slide through.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4730/25699806908_cef0af35fe_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Fa1ee7)20180106_200255 (https://flic.kr/p/Fa1ee7) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4633/25699802338_5c85c26be6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Fa1cSj)20180106_203039 (https://flic.kr/p/Fa1cSj) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4589/25699805118_a2131ebd98_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Fa1dGf)20180106_200425 (https://flic.kr/p/Fa1dGf) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
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With the A arms already glued in place, now I carefully cut the spindle down till it just fits between. Sanding a little off of the top or bottom to center it. I aim for the center, but you could raise or lower the front end by making your spindle longer or shorter on the ends.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4602/40145871192_18eeb398de_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24ay5QY)20180209_213046 (https://flic.kr/p/24ay5QY) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
The last thing is to take a short piece of the 5/32" tubing. I slightly notch one side then slide a short piece on over the axle stub so it butts up to the spindle. A bit of glue on it makes the axle to spindle joint very strong. Using PPP wheels, I drill the axle holes all the way through with the .080" bit. The wheels will slide on very tight, but still removeable.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4591/39569838711_5ac1cc74e9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23hDLst)20180106_204217 (https://flic.kr/p/23hDLst) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
Now, to get the chassis up on 4 wheels. I always feel I have a better chance of finishing a car if I get it up on the wheels as soon as possible so it starts to look like something. I'm super gluing a Ron Coon Resins quick change axle to the kit trailing arms. Leaving the center part free on the tube for now until I get everything set side to side. Now for the fun part! I cut the kit chassis off right behind the rear coil spring mounts. I'm going to use the kit springs during the build process for strength and to set the ride height. They'll be replace with coil over springs later. Next I trim up all the unused stuff on the chassis with my little side cutters.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4594/24702406087_d4defd8d28_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DCShHe)20180106_204930 (https://flic.kr/p/DCShHe) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4733/38673936085_fbe4d53934_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21Vu2Pt)20180106_195422 (https://flic.kr/p/21Vu2Pt) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
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(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4594/25699810108_a3359f3140_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Fa1fbh)20180106_195744 (https://flic.kr/p/Fa1fbh) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
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Up on 4 wheels! I mocked up the 3D nose and fuel cell from Dwight at Custom Dirt Cars. Looking racy!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4594/39569898781_3a0b2dbcd1_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23hE5ja)20180107_192933 (https://flic.kr/p/23hE5ja) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
My next order of business is to shorten the wheelbase. The kit chassis measures out almost 109". Dirt late models run a 103" to 105" wheelbase. I cut the front chassis stub off right in front of the floor pan and removed about 3/16" I think. The cool thing about these chassis is how easy they are to shorten. By trimming the little jack nubs off the side of the frame, the floor pan sits perfectly flat on the bench minus the rear suspension. I took a little off the front stub on each side and slide it up to the floor pan. The front cross member that runs under the oil pan will sit perfectly flat on the bench as well. This makes it easy to level and glue it back together. Some liquid glue and a small piece of plastic glued on each side gives it lots of strength.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4645/39569901271_1cf325f5c4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23hE646)20180106_205731 (https://flic.kr/p/23hE646) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
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After a little test fitting of the body, I needed a little piece of square stock glued to the top of the rear frame to bring it up to the correct height. Then I drilled 2 holes for the rear frame stub. The rear frame will be made from 1/16" rod. Glue in two lengths and eyeball them to make sure they're level with each other. I left them long for now.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4606/26306011588_00927f66bd_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G5zbKW)20180208_220610 (https://flic.kr/p/G5zbKW) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4651/26306017878_6e72bb0b19_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G5zdCo)20180208_220603 (https://flic.kr/p/G5zdCo) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
I glued little spacers temporarily to the bottom of the frame to get the body lined up where I wanted it. Then I fabricated a front firewall. Technically wrong, but I wanted it to keep the body centered and locked in on the frame. The firewall glues right to the front of the floor pan. Then I glued strips of flat plastic to the bottom of the body, one in front and one behind the firewall. This will hold the body securely where I want it. I glued a similar strip to the bottom of the body where the rear of the frame touches it to keep it centered.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4697/26305949088_d8a7736471_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G5ySbm)20180209_204734 (https://flic.kr/p/G5ySbm) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4705/26305953098_926f106077_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G5yTnu)20180209_204644 (https://flic.kr/p/G5yTnu) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4663/40145855232_9963927688_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24ay16N)20180209_204635 (https://flic.kr/p/24ay16N) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
Everything locked down. With the body secure front to back and side to side, I cut my little spacer blocks off the bottom of the chassis.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4621/40145867772_237c542a98_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24ay4Q1)20180209_213233 (https://flic.kr/p/24ay4Q1) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4699/40145864492_d2aa667773_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24ay3Rs)20180209_213245 (https://flic.kr/p/24ay3Rs) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4670/40145862482_e2484906e4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24ay3fN)20180209_213432 (https://flic.kr/p/24ay3fN) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4675/40145859542_feee21a92d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24ay2o7)20180209_213224 (https://flic.kr/p/24ay2o7) by Tom Kirby (https://www.flickr.com/photos/94024653@N02/), on Flickr
Interesting WIP build...
IF Revell gets around to re-issuing the old ASA kits, would those frames work for the DLM and IMCA Modifieds?
Big Donkey has an IMCA style modified body to go with the also incorrect old MPC modifieds...have thought about getting one someday just for the heck of it.....
Quote from: sentsat71 on February 10, 2018, 06:45:51 AM
Interesting WIP build...
IF Revell gets around to re-issuing the old ASA kits, would those frames work for the DLM and IMCA Modifieds?
Big Donkey has an IMCA style modified body to go with the also incorrect old MPC modifieds...have thought about getting one someday just for the heck of it.....
Ron Coon also has a IMCA modified body that one day I'll get,but have 2 long term projects going now and 2 to follow
and as usual Tom,your work blows me away!
Looking awesome, Tom. That chassis work is phenominal.
Very interesting build Tom, I'm watching and learning. I can't wait to see this one finished.
Bob
I'm working on it. The nose is giving me some trouble. I'm going to give it another go tonite perhaps.
That's coming along nice Tom. A lot of work in this one already. Keep us posted on the progress.
Bob
lookin good Tom!love the work you put into these!
So cool, thanks for showing the details so far.......the end build will be sweet
Very cool fab work!
Tom...your fab work is GREAT bud!!! I'm not a big fan of those cars but.... your build technique and attention to detail is outstanding. Keeps me coming back for the next update. Great stuff...
After a long lay off, working on my dirt late model again. Custom Dirtcars economy quick change replacing the nascar trailing arms. Also their fuel cell, coilover shocks and MD3 style nose. Trying to dial in the roof, getting close. WFC rear wing from Ron Coon Resins. It'll have Ron Coon wheels and wide 5 hubs too. Thx for looking. Tb
(https://i.ibb.co/VH7VNDv/20210306-182552.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pWt2PZ3)
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I must have missed this completely.
Three years and one day later this one continues.
Tom, I admire your willingness, even 3 years back, to create a simple model. Now, for me, after 14 years back in the hobby, and at least 100 models, and 81 years old, I guess I have done my time. I no longer even look at the step by step construction topics, and just look for the finished products.
I still admire those who do those builds, and understand those who love to follow along, but most of us tend to get caught up in it all trying to match, or keep up.
I still piddle along, but also realize that they are just another one on the shelf.
Am looking forward to your finished model. Its going to be a knock out.
Tom..
Coming along very nicely....
See you chnaged photo imaging sites, or did you "fire" Tom Kirby on flckr? ;) ::) :)
Some how I missed this one also. Sure glad you wiped off the cobwebs and brought it back to the bench. I am getting more interested in this style of racer and really enjoy watching your build come together.
Nice work Tom. I am not a fan of these current "late models" at all but as you know, I have knocked a few together just for kicks. They are fiddly and you are working them out really well!
....I really like how you transformed the NASCAR chassis into a dirt late model chassis with the scratch built spindles and after market goodies in the rear.....like a wine it gets finer with time :)
Looking really good Tom. I can't wait to see this one finished.
Bob
Very interesting. I just learned a couple of things. Thank you Tom.
Rett
Man Tom...this is really coming along and looking GREAT. Again...GREAT fab work..
So I was unhappy with a couple of things and started cutting and gluing. This is where Im at so far. Inaccurate as all get out, but I'm having fun building a cup car, then cutting out everything thats not dirtcar. It's a little crooked and wonky but I have some good ideas when I start another one.
(https://i.ibb.co/2sP68n7/20210420-220825.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pRZPW0v)
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I don't know Tom. . . get a body on that thing and cover it up! However, it IS maybe the best Zamboni Machine I've seen scratch-built! (Tom and I are good friends folks so this little ribbing is all in good fun)
I'm close to having it covered. I was thinking about opening the hood, and then one thing lead to another... ...
Zamboni!!! Thanks. I'm flattered!
Tb ;)
You take measurements ? Oh, my !
I remember someone's comment one time --- " You open the boxes ?"
Great job, Tom. Keep churning.
Dang Tom! You musta' measured that thing down to micrometers! Its WAY outta my league!! Can't wait to see the final product! Are you doing the #31 Droste car originally pictured?
Thanks for the nice comments everyone. Its really kind of a cobbled up thing, but I kind of like it. I want everyone to know that after Mr. Bogard got after me I added a couple bars and painted the chassis tonite! Body to follow soon.
Bob, Dennis Satorious created a crazy good set of decals for me! I just hope I can pull off the paint to do them justice. Jonathon Davenport 2019 World 100 winner!
(https://i.ibb.co/s19VzHv/Jonathan-Davenport-Retro-Wrap-World-100-640x480.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5jhRwFW)
(https://i.ibb.co/6PTXpdk/20210421-220344.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cFZYpmj)
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It's going to turn out to be a gem Tom! If it isn't a show-stopper, that would be a first for you and I don't expect anything like that to happen!
Really looking good Tom, I can't wait to see this one finished.
Bob
Man Tom..your build car looks better than the 1/1. There's not a doubt in my mind that you nail the paint scheme. Is that weld joints on the roof to body line? Looks like they were in a hurry to get to the track...eh?
I really like the way you shook pretty much all of the NASCAR out and built one of the best dirt late model chassis that I have seen in a long, long time. Will be book marking this thread for future reference......
Tiny update....
Decided to open the hood and make a new one out of sheet stock. Got the chassis painted and glued the nose pieces all together. This 3D nose was rough! Thanks to Mr. Bogard for introducing me to Mr. Primer-surfacer. Brushed on 3 coats, lightly sanding in betwixt each coat and now, as Sherman Potter would say, "ain't enough O's in smoooooth". Added Hosier logos to tires from Ron Coon Resins and narrowed his RW1 wing to fit. Hoping for some more bench time this weekend. As always, thx for looking! Tb
(https://i.ibb.co/vxzP6yk/20210524-204311.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LzptXj1)
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That is looking better every time I see it Tom. A lot of skills are going into this one!
Question...Where did you guys get Mr. Primer Surfacer 1000 at? I don't think any of the local stores here carry it...I could be wrong.
David...did you spray, air brush or brush it on when you used it?
For a primer coat that sure does look nice :)
Brian- My LHS carries it. I have used the bottle and brushed mine on. It's kind of like a liquid putty and you can thin it and shoot it if you choose but I prefer to put it right where I want to put it with a small paint brush, a cotton swab or Tamiya swab straight from the bottle. It dries quickly, adhesion is good and it sands easily (work with fine-very fine grit). It's neat stuff when you have those seam smoothing problems, pinholes or little imperfections to deal with.
Brian, it goes on gray. After sanding I shot it with Tamiya white primer. I think I got it at Hobbytown USA.
Tb
(https://i.ibb.co/cC8C28S/RC4-1024x768.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cC8C28S) Check out our 3D resin printed rear clips for project like this. Ron Coon Resins part #'s RC_1 and RC_2. They are a direct fit to AMT NASCAR chassis'. www.roncoon.com
(https://i.ibb.co/QNxF6rW/20210722-220943.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ncKsDzX)
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Itty bitty update. Hardly worth it, but since the board is slow it'll give you something to look at. Added battery box cover and oil cooler screen to deck of the late model. Getting precariously close to painting the deck. I've also been practicing my 'rust' techniques for the graphics. I have a smaller needle and tip ordered for my airbrush now. I think that will get me dialed in. By the way, using a RonCoon.com CT1 cage topper for the roll cage. Cut a little out and added a little here and there.
Tb
....Got a couple of questions....
Where did you get the battery box cover and oil cooler screen? Also, which size of smaller needle and tip are you going to be using for the rust.....any difference in p.s.i as to usual
Been using the primer surfacer on the latest Torino late model build and I really like it a lot, so thanks for introducing me to it ;D
Brian, the battery cover is thin aluminum. It comes in a roll at HobbyLobby. I made the groove with a tooth pick and a push pin for the rivets. The mesh is fine wire cloth from McMaster Carr. My practice paint spots were with a medium tip in my Badger 200. I have a new fine tip and nozzle that allows for even smaller spots. I'll try to post a pic. Running about 25 psi using red oxide primer decanted into my airbrush.
https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Wood-Crafting/Hardware-Tools/Aluminum-Roll/p/21909
Tb
Tom- Try using more air, less paint. I don't mean increased air pressure but rather dial the paint flow way back. If you can see the rust color after a second or so of spraying, that's probably too much paint. I am not familiar with the Badger 200 since I have always used my trusty Paasche Model H.
I love how you shortened the wheel base.The 2 i build i shortened behind the seat.this is cleaner and a whole lot easier.I also bought Ron's wedge bodys,rear clip and roll cage I'll have to keep an eye on theis,between this and davids build i should be ok
:) Great work, Tom. Very nice.
Got some paint work done. Still have to do the passenger side. Getting closer!
Tb
(https://i.ibb.co/2N3qjvD/20210906-210206.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cLhJN6G)
Paint and decals pretty well done. Just need to finish everything underneath. (Roof isn't fastened on yet)
Thanks for looking!
(https://i.ibb.co/GQFgfMj/20211002-204349.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xq3VKgQ)
:) Wish I could do all that .................. but my time has passed.
Great job, ole buddy.
Man...that looks KILLER Tom! Great job.
Gettin' there!
Looking good Tom.
Bob
Thank you Tom. I'm glad I posed the question. I think some other people may have benifited from your post! I will be giving this a try on my next build. Thank you again.
Rett
Incredible information and an awesome build. Thank You!