I started a build of one of the cars of my second most favorite driver, Verlin Eaker. I'll try to show my progress through this old Plymouth and as always, this is just the way I do things and not necessarily is it always the best or easiest way! Here's where I ended up late last night.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JnKgMrxAyY5G.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JnKgWyxAyY5G.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JnKhE8xAyY5G.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JnKhedxAyY5G.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JnKhbNxAyY5G.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JnKhcMxAyY5G.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JnKhKrxAyY5G.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JnKhfdxAyY5G.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JnKhAyxAyY5G.jpg)
Great choice for one of the midwest's finest drivers and all around good guy. I remember that car at "The Downs" and that hemi had a sound unique to that car and what a muscle it was!!! Looking forward to seeing your project progress since I'm kind of struggling with closing in the side of the body where it meets the firewall on my 55 Chevy project as well as a 56 Chevy gasser project. Anyway, great start on this car!!!😎👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻😎🏁
Very nicely done, David!!! Clay Kemp did an article in Scale Auto a few years ago as I'm sure you know. Very similar results but I like your tutorial much better. Way easier to understand. I'm really diggin' this build!!!😎👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻😎🏁
Another very nice replica coming along there David. Thanks for the tutorial also.
I'm looking forward to seeing the finished project.
We raced these cars in central pa. but we left the front fenders on the cars.
Bob
Looks great David.. I am enjoying watching your progress.
There are several things that make a great racecar model, the proper wheel and tire for the period and the "set" the way the car sets with just a hint of forward rake. I think you've nailed it.
....Been watching this one and will continue to watch this one come together. These type of cars ....sans fenders and grills...never made it down here in Kansas, seems to have been an Iowa/ Wisconsin area type of car.
So would these have been some sort of 15 year predecessor of what would later become the I.M.C.A Modified?
:) I was at Duluth Minnesota for a year in the Air Force, '66 - '67, and they ran the fenderless late models at Proctor Speedway, and the Superior Wisconsin fairgrounds.
Quote from: David Bogard on August 10, 2018, 02:01:18 PM
Making progress and I am now down to doing a bunch of those "little" things that I am not generally as thrilled about doing. I tend to enjoy the heavy the heavy cutting and whacking and fabricating end of things more than this "completion" stuff. Anyway, here's some of the pieces in their various stages. By the way, you can see a glimpse of those rear wheels that I made to better match the 1:1 car.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Jq6hagxAyY5G.jpg)
Are those seat belts store bought or did you fab them? They look real good. They one thing I have trouble with, (among a few other things). lol
Rett
Tks, you do the same as i do, only better.....guess I'll have to up my game.....tks again
Rett
It is very impressive the speed you are able to do such quality work.
Quote from: David Bogard on August 12, 2018, 11:03:24 PM
........ Now, put the mick up in the cabinet for a few days......
I had no idea it was Irish ;D
Great subject matter & tutorial David! Always loved his Chrysler hemi cars. Attached is a photo of Verlin taken July 21st at the Independence (IA) Motor Speedway at the annual "Hall Of Fame Night". He was the first track champion in 1965, driving this 1959 Plymouth (of which you also made a model).
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1791/43375282534_423a52c721.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/295VEjS)verlin (https://flic.kr/p/295VEjS) by RD Dix (https://www.flickr.com/photos/97053629@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1837/43187434715_fb6cae9c69.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/28NjTHn)verlin 59 plym (https://flic.kr/p/28NjTHn) by RD Dix (https://www.flickr.com/photos/97053629@N04/), on Flickr
Looking GREAT!!!
Like reading some of the stories behind the builds......adding to my racing "education".
David, you lost me on how you do the white underlayer sheet. Could you explain in more detail how that is done?
Mark J -
When you buy Cartograph or other commercially available decals, the white layer and color layers are all together as one piece. The old ALPS printers could also do that. Since they were already out of production when I started doing decals, I chose to use two separate layers using laser printers. For David's info, my whites are pure white - I don't use light gray, although some people have done that.
This means that you have to put the white layer on your model, let it dry completely, and then apply the color layer on top, and align the two layers properly.
David uses decal setting solution to get the decals to lay down. I use Future Floor Wax instead. Using a custom made application tool ( a finger ), smear some Future where you want the decal to go. then, while the Future is still wet, put the decal in place, and smooth the decal out with a damp paper towel or rag.
Get the bubbles out from underneath the decal, and wipe off any excess. Let dry completely.
Then repeat the process for the color layer on top.
David is correct - the smaller white decals in a single layer, seem to stand out, even on bright or dark paints.
The larger while decals generally need two layers to look good, and sometimes even three layers to look excellent. Your mileage may vary :-)
Thanks,
Greg Holland
vsrn
Quote from: vsrn on October 12, 2018, 01:56:07 PM
Mark J -
When you buy Cartograph or other commercially available decals, the white layer and color layers are all together as one piece. The old ALPS printers could also do that. Since they were already out of production when I started doing decals, I chose to use two separate layers using laser printers. For David's info, my whites are pure white - I don't use light gray, although some people have done that.
This means that you have to put the white layer on your model, let it dry completely, and then apply the color layer on top, and align the two layers properly.
David uses decal setting solution to get the decals to lay down. I use Future Floor Wax instead. Using a custom made application tool ( a finger ), smear some Future where you want the decal to go. then, while the Future is still wet, put the decal in place, and smooth the decal out with a damp paper towel or rag.
Get the bubbles out from underneath the decal, and wipe off any excess. Let dry completely.
Then repeat the process for the color layer on top.
David is correct - the smaller white decals in a single layer, seem to stand out, even on bright or dark paints.
The larger while decals generally need two layers to look good, and sometimes even three layers to look excellent. Your mileage may vary :-)
Thanks,
Greg Holland
vsrn
Greg, how did you get the blue background to match the color of the car on the white sheet?
Mark J -
That's easy - I didn't :)
That's the color of the paper backing on the blank decal paper as it comes from the manufacturer!
However, I beat them over the head for years, trying to convince them to make a blue backing
available. It used to be that you could buy decal paper with a blue background. Then the paper supplier went out of business, so blue backed decal paper disappeared. Finally, somebody else must have asked them about it also, and since it wasn't just one crazy guy bugging them, they thought that maybe there was a market for it...
The being said, I did ask David for a paint sample, so that I could match the body color with the numbers.
There's no trick to doing that - just a lot of grunt work... And I have a lot of experience grunting :-)
Greg Holland
vsrn
Quote from: vsrn on October 12, 2018, 03:23:04 PM
Mark J -
That's easy - I didn't :)
That's the color of the paper backing on the blank decal paper as it comes from the manufacturer!
However, I beat them over the head for years, trying to convince them to make a blue backing
available. It used to be that you could buy decal paper with a blue background. Then the paper supplier went out of business, so blue backed decal paper disappeared. Finally, somebody else must have asked them about it also, and since it wasn't just one crazy guy bugging them, they thought that maybe there was a market for it...
The being said, I did ask David for a paint sample, so that I could match the body color with the numbers.
There's no trick to doing that - just a lot of grunt work... And I have a lot of experience grunting :-)
Greg Holland
vsrn
So your printer prints white ink on blue paper?? I am totally confused now. ???
Yes. I print the white decals on the blue backed paper, just so that the white decals are easier to see
when cutting them up to apply them. The decals themselves are white. It's just the backing paper that is blue.
I could just print them on the conventional white backing paper, and actually have, when I ran out of the blue paper.
Greg Holland
vsrn
Thanks, Greg. Now I understand.
I haven't been on the site for awhile - happy to see the completed Eaker machine! A real sharp-looker and informative tutorial. The firewall detail must've been a real headache! A question - were those PPP rear rims, and if so, how & with what tools did you re-work them?
Another excellent replica build David and a nice set of decals from Greg. Great job guys.
Bob
Super nice job David. Your firewall work in the door area is top notch....and the rest of it too! I bet that thing was a beast on the track in its day. By the way, I told you so....Hehehehehe!
David, You've done it again. Another fabulous replica from your bench. The detail is off the charts, and the paint and decal work, as well as the awesome decals by Greg, are all top notch.
That came out GREAT, David.....!!!!!!!!!!!!
Another masterpiece! Nice job my friend!
GREAT job on this replica build David. I have always liked that body style. As always...your fab work is top notch...
Very nice work on the Plymouth, David! The '64 is one of my favorite years for the Plymouth.
Yup, another super job David, keep'em coming!
Rett
Very cool Plymouth , David!! This hemi is a monster 8) 8)
Nice job !!
David - I sent you a PM