This may be a strange question....in a way....

Started by sentsat71, December 10, 2019, 11:09:08 AM

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sentsat71

How or what do you do to prep plastic kits before any paint is applied....
This is something I've NEVER done in building any kits in years past....

Thanks.....

One other question, If you picked up a resin piece from someone other than the manufacturer. what would you use to prep it for painting, etc....?
I know that Big Donkey says NOT to use soap and water.....

Thanks.....
Ed K.

Brian Conn

#1
   Once resin is CURED it's cured , despite what's being told....think about it, if moisture could indeed  re activate the resin, then any amount of moisture present in paint, glue, accelerator, humidity, sweaty fingers etc. could be detrimental to the over all condition of the resin piece......same thing could also be said with using  alcohol / lacquer thinner/ acetone as there is amounts of water in those as well.  The only thing that can cause resin, whether its polyurethane or epoxy , to change its state,density or properties..... which ever term you want to use... is excessive heat .......Alumilite, for an example, starts to deform @ 425 degrees f. If excessive pressure is applied to the piece, it may start to give way @ 250 to 275 degrees f.
  What needs to be cleaned from the part or pieces is the either the mold release or any oils released from the rubber mold since it is petroleum based RTV silicone, if that type of mold was used.
  Full disclosure...I use Alumilite mold making and casting products exclusively...have been for a few years....I clean my parts with warm water and Dawn dish washing soap (to cut any oils) ....   never have had ANY issues so far with that method.  I have also done the alcohol / lacquer thinner/ acetone/ mineral spirits wipe down... what evers handy at the time...results where the same as warm water and Dawn dish washing soap.

  This link goes into a little bit more detail:   http://www.resinparts.com/working-with-resin.html
     
The only heroes in Washington are buried just outside of it in Arlington

sentsat71

Thanks to all those who responded....
Will have to keep coming back to this post....

Some of my funding for other things needed to get myself back to where I have the paints I want/need to really get going, just went to Larry @ Big Donkey....had him cast some items for me....for future builds race car wise.....It's were a good chunk of my annual "paycheck" for being on city council has gone.... ::) :o

Still trying to figure out the best place to look online for possibly Tamyia and Model Master acrylic paints.....as in to brush paint builds....
No paint booth, so not about to track down rattle can spray paints....and not since I'm renting....
Ed K.

TonyK

I wash all bodies with Dawn soap and water. Even did it to a Donkey Resin body before I knew you weren't supposed to but nothing bad happened. Don't plan on doing it on future bodies I have just to be safe but other resin products will be washed as I always have,

Plastic is washed the same way. I rarely prime things unless they've had putty applied or other body work besides the usual sanding.

I get my Tamiya paint from TowerHobbies and hobbylinc.com and they both carry Model Master. Modelroundup carries Model Master also.

sentsat71

Thanks TonyK...
Keep forgetting about Tower Hobbies and Hobbylinc.....
Ed K.

RCR

For my parts I recommend my customers use acetone or rubbing alcohol. No need to soak the parts just wet a Q Tip on one end. Wipe with wet end and follow with the dry end.  For my tires I recommend wiping them down twice using a small piece of paper towel moistened with acetone followed with a dry wipe. The only reason I recommend twice on the tires is because of the release agent I use. It is non silicone but you will feel they are slick almost greasy feeling compared to the rest of my parts. Ron Coon Resins www.roncoon.com

sentsat71

David,
Where do you get those sponge sand pads?

TIA
Ed K.

sentsat71

Ed K.