Tobias Poseable Steering

[David Bogard]

Poseable steering is a cool effect that adds realism to most race car builds and on some types, the steering already is designed to move from the kit while on others it's not. Making the steering poseable is relatively easy on some kits but the Tobias Modifieds are not so much fun to convert. For those wanting to, this is the way I generally make my Tobias steering poseable.
Here's the typical Tobias setup.

The first thing to do is to carefully cut off the tips as shown. Then, lightly sand or file the tops and bottoms of the round knob at the end of the axle in order for it to allow the Plastruct rectangular tubing to fit snugly over it.

Now take your Plastruct rectangular tubing and drill two holes that will fit snugly the rod you choose for your spindles. I use .080 rod most of the time and did here. Now use superglue and just barely stick the rod into your tubing. (This was a full length stick but I always work from the ends in order to do both spindles and that's why my tubing piece is so short)


Next you will cut off your spindle brackets, then carefully open up the bottom edge. You will probably need to do a little trimming in order to get a nice close fit on your shaved axle ends. Don't get it butted right up against the axle tips because then it will have no room left to swivel. Just "eyeball" it and make it nice and snug with just enough room to move.



Now comes the hard part. Take your pinvise and carefully drill a hole straight down the middle of the "meat" of your axle tip. You should then be able to position your spindle back on the axle tip and make a mark or two to get things lined up and then gingerly drill the spindle. The spindle material is very thin so it drills very easily. The brave can simply put the spindle in place and drill it all at once (and I have done that) but it sure is nerve racking. Make sure your drill bit allows a regular straight pin to fit snugly, not too tight and certainly not sloppy loose. Also, ALWAYS use a sharp drill bit and when they become dull, replace them. Also chuck these tiny drill bits all the way into your pinvise and only leave out enough to clear your drilling length (with some to spare). The point is that these little tiny drill bits will bend on you or flex all over the place with the least amount of pressure if too much of it is protruding from the pinvise.

Now you can remove them and do some shape sanding/filing on both both spindle tabs as well as round off the corners of the axle tip in order to let your spindle swing freely. Of course you will trim off your straight pins and use a tiny dab of superglue on the tops in order to nail it down and yet still move.

[Rich Sipos]

Very nice tutorial you make it look easy! The other thing about the tiny drill bits if you leave too much out when using not only do they bend as Ponch said but they break real easy.
Rich

[TarheelRick]

I have been tinkering with an A-arm steering Tobias chassis to be used in a Mustang body.  This is how I am building poseable steering for it.
 

Need to look at the engineering, but it is on the back burner right now.

[sentsat71]

David Bogard said:

I am currently fiddling with the back end on a Tobias converting it to leaf springs.

Do you by chance have the October 2005 issue of Scale Auto? Drew Hierwarter did an article on "Working with styrene" and has a pic of a Tobias frame with leaf springs in the rear and a new front clip to incorporate a cross spring front. Unfortunately he does not mention how he built the springs or where he may have "borrowed" the front and rear springs, his comment was on how he butted up the new clip to the existing kit frame......

Me, I just wish I had the patience to try this.....but I've never had too much patience in building models.....
How I did some things back in the '70's, I'll never remember......   

[sentsat71]

Oh, yeah, still have that issue, and now well worn, as compared to other issues of SA and even older SAE  LOL

Will see what I can do, David