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34 Jalopy

Started by thirdgearspeedshop, June 03, 2019, 09:45:59 AM

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thirdgearspeedshop

Quote from: Greg Birky on June 21, 2019, 08:27:00 PM
Good looking old jalopy!  Your fab work is sure nice clean work.  I like those radiator hoses.  Are they just wire wrapped around the originals?  The effect is very cool!🏁

Thanks, The radiator hoses are 26 gauge jewelry wire wrapped around styrene rod. They should look like rubber after I paint them matte black.

Olderndirt

Hey Thirdgear, I make hoses the same way, but instead of lining them with tubing I use Testor's windshield glue on a toothpick inside the coils. This is the same stuff model railroaders use to make small windows. You just get a gob of it on a toothpick and run it around the inside of the coil, and it will bridge and become a flexible hose. Works for air ducts also. Once painted they really look good.

  Olderndirt

Dirtman

Quote from: Olderndirt on June 24, 2019, 10:17:31 AM
Hey Thirdgear, I make hoses the same way, but instead of lining them with tubing I use Testor's windshield glue on a toothpick inside the coils. This is the same stuff model railroaders use to make small windows. You just get a gob of it on a toothpick and run it around the inside of the coil, and it will bridge and become a flexible hose. Works for air ducts also. Once painted they really look good.

  Olderndirt
Call me dumb but I'd like to see your way ODT!

Rett

thirdgearspeedshop

Update:

The fabrication is done and I have moved into paint and detailing phase. I have installed the wheels onto the axles, painted the shocks, gas tank, and steering box, and installed the battery. I used a nylon tea bag for the pebble screen up front. I painted the body with Model Master Blue Angels blue enamel. Paint is kinda rough, but so is the subject matter. The body will be numbered and dull coated along with dirt weathering. I have also started detailing the flathead. It will get a nice dose of grit and grime as well.


Olderndirt

Rest;

  Give it a try, it isn't like the components are going to break the bank. This stuff allows you to open wind wings, without having to deal with the too thick kit glass. Make great windows for heavily chopped coupes and sedans with "mails lot " rear, and side windows. It will bride enough to do a heavily chopped windshield to, but isn't really flat enough most of the time.

  Olderrndirt

Dirtman

Quote from: Olderndirt on June 26, 2019, 01:45:19 PM
Rest;

  Give it a try, it isn't like the components are going to break the bank. This stuff allows you to open wind wings, without having to deal with the too thick kit glass. Make great windows for heavily chopped coupes and sedans with "mails lot " rear, and side windows. It will bride enough to do a heavily chopped windshield to, but isn't really flat enough most of the time.

  Olderrndirt

Thanks man!

David Bogard

Not to hijack the thread, but Testor's Window Maker is for really tiny stuff Rett. You will have to fiddle with it like crazy to get it to the maximum, which is only 1/4". It's best for use simply gluing in headlights or other smallish "clear" items or small outside chrome. Clear acetate is a better option for windows in our scale but if you must go with a clear drying liquid, Mod Podge from Hobby Lobby is much better because it's more "gooey" and will create a bubble much easier that spans small areas. It's essentially just watered-down Elmer's white glue in either case. Just didn't want you to go buy some of the Testor's stuff and think you can "make" windows of any noticeable size with it.
I appreciate people that actually build and post models.
https://public.fotki.com/DKBogard/

David Bogard

Hey Rett, I also wanted to add that regardless of whether you are Testor's or Mod Podge, there is a specific technique to "make" glass. PM me and I can shoot you a "detailed" description on it. And now. . . back to our regularly scheduled programming.
I appreciate people that actually build and post models.
https://public.fotki.com/DKBogard/

Olderndirt

Rhett;

  David may have some good points if you live where it humid. I live in California and was able to make all kinds of small windows, and windwings, just following the instruction on the package. But have a cousin that lives in Mississippi that can't get it to do much of anything. He's a pretty good builder, so I suspect it may be the humidity thats causing the problem.

  Olderndirt

Olderndirt

3rdGear;

  Those wheels, and splined center wide fives, really make this build look the part. Nice clean build.

  Olderndirt

thirdgearspeedshop

Here are a couple shots of the seat and seatbelt details. I tried to replicate an aircraft style belt to go along with the aircraft seat. I'm not 100% happy with the silvering around the decals, as you can see in the second pic,. O well, ya live and learn.

 

Hondo

#26
Looking good so far. Gonna be cool.

As for the decal "silvering"........ If that's flat paint, I've never had any luck with decals on flat paint.
I have heard, haven't tried it, that if you paint it gloss, add decals, then spray flat over that, it'll do better . IDK.

thirdgearspeedshop

Quote from: Hondo on June 28, 2019, 05:07:56 PM
Looking good so far. Gonna be cool.

As for the decal "silvering"........ If that's flat paint, I've never had any luck with decals on flat paint.
I have heard, haven't tried it, that if you paint it gloss, add decals, then spray flat over that, it'll do better . IDK.

The decals were applied over gloss paint but there was a little orange peel in the paint. I usually use Tamiya cans for body painting, but I had a can of Model Master laying around. I didn't fuss over getting the paint super smooth like I normally do and the decals are a reflection of that. In certain light you can't really see it. I'm not going to worry about it, but learn from it.

I've learned that even dull coated beaters need to be built super smooth at first to get proper decal finishing. I do'nt fool with decal setting solutions, but I probably should.

Olderndirt

I've had fits with some decals. Even with setting solutions they sometimes refuse to cooperate. Sometimes a little heat from a hairdryer can help, but again not always.
Out here on the left coast many of the early modifieds ran either a mud and snow tire on the right rear, sometimes a military non-directional tire, and often a regular tire with hand cut grooves. Oh, and whitewalls were not unheard of either. They made them quit putting snow chains on the right rear, for safety sake.

  Olderndirt

thirdgearspeedshop

A 1/25 scale knobby tire is hard to find. I suppose there are resin and 3d printed versions out there.