1969 Dodge Charger Daytona

[MarkJ]

The car I want to build is the #22 but...it's Bobby Allisons' car. I have the power slide decal sheet for both those cars. Seeing your outstanding build makes me want to do it right now.

Thats great , Gary. You will have a much better decal sheet to do  yours with . I think it has foil numbers and letters, which I could not do on my sheets. If you want a better over all look. Open up the wheel openings and flair the fenders. If you leave them stock they are way too small and hides alot of the tires.

[Gary Davis]

Hey Mark... Thanks for the heads up on the wheel wells. I will definitely do that when I get there. The decal sheet does have gold foil #'s. It's a very good sheet just looking at it. One thing about doing your own decals though..... is that YOU did them, and they look good.

[MarkJ]

Hey Mark... Thanks for the heads up on the wheel wells. I will definitely do that when I get there. The decal sheet does have gold foil #'s. It's a very good sheet just looking at it. One thing about doing your own decals though..... is that YOU did them, and they look good.

Here are the leftover decals. I really need to find a good fixatent and i was thinking of using future which is pledge floor finish. It is water proof so i dont know why it wouldnt work. maybe nobody else has thought about using it. You can put it on with a brush and it is smooth and glossy when it drys.

[Gary Davis]

That sounds like something to try Mark. I don't think I'd put it on to thick though. It might separate the decal film from the backing paper. You could use those left over Decals in your post to experiment on. I'd be interested on the outcome if you do the experiment. Something to think about doing for sure.

[MarkJ]

That sounds like something to try Mark. I don't think I'd put it on to thick though. It might separate the decal film from the backing paper. You could use those left over Decals in your post to experiment on. I'd be interested on the outcome if you do the experiment. Something to think about doing for sure.

The ones left over already have a fixatent on them . i would like to do a raw sheet with no fixatent to see if the future would be viable. I would just use one thin coat like I do when I finish a model and want to clear it. I'll  let you know what I find out.

[Brian Conn]

You did a great job with this build ...and I enjoy reading the back stories that you provide with your builds, learn something every time

[MarkJ]

You did a great job with this build ...and I enjoy reading the back stories that you provide with your builds, learn something every time

Thanks, Brian. i purposely find cars that have good back stories to give me the inspiration to finish the build and then share the back story. Not always, but most of the time.  Thanks again.

[MarkJ]

I found a sheet i messed up from the last model that i had not put fixatent on yet and tried future as a fixatent. It works good if you follow some rules. first when you dunk the decal in the water wait a couple of minutes till it starts uncurling before trying to remove the decal from the sheet. Also you should not try to uncurl the decal back to flat because it might crack the decal. just slide it off a little curled and once its on the model with some decal setting solution it is safe to move it  into   place. These laser decals are not ink . They are tiny bits of plastic melted together and that is why they can crack when still on the sheet and even on the model if they are forced to hard to move. I dont feel like I can sell these because im afraid I'm asking too much from the buyer to follow these rules to have a good outcome with the decals.