38/39 ford

[Gary Davis]

It's really looking good Mark. Looking forward to seeing color on this puppy...

[MarkJ]

It's really looking good Mark. Looking forward to seeing color on this puppy...

Thanks, Gary. Shouldn't be too much longer. Its a two tone paint job, so that's going to be kind of a drag. I really hate to mask.

[MarkJ]

I'm going to have to change the steering wheel and the instrument panel a little. The 40 and the 39 are different. Also I got the body masked for the first color. One thing bad about acryl paint. It does not fuse itself to other acryl paint so you have to completely mask the two areas from each other. It bonds great to primer but not to other acryl paint. If you don't mask each area and then mask, when you pull off the masking, the paint on top of the other paint comes off with the masking tape. I found this out the hard way on my last build.

[pdaly28]

love the steps your taking us thru and I am sure the end result will be beautiful

[MarkJ]

I didn't know that about Acrylics and that sounds like a bummer. Could you shoot a clear coat in between them as a barrier? Might have to be Future because I don;t know if the new synthetic clear lacquers would attack the acrylic or not? Especially if yo are using water-based acrylics Mark. The "new" paints have so many solvent variables and are called by so many names that it's gotten to hard to make any "rules" without testing first. I only bring this all up because masking is not my thing; I don't like the time it takes and all the hassle I go through masking. Uggh!

Thanks , David. Testors makes a gloss clear acryl that I use after painting. it polishes up nicely with 6000 through 12000 grit paper and then a final coat of future ( which is now called pledge floor care) gives a really glossy see yourself finish. I used that method on my 49 olds and was really pleased with the result.

[Gary Davis]

Man Mark...that paint on the Olds looks 15mi deep! Is that Testors clear labeled under Model Master ACRYL? I have a 1oz bottle(#4638) that's labeled that way and haven't tried it yet. It's also a cream color. Just curious as to if that's the same paint. 

Oh yea...what colors are you going with on the FORD?

[MarkJ]

Man Mark...that paint on the Olds looks 15mi deep! Is that Testors clear labeled under Model Master ACRYL? I have a 1oz bottle(#4638) that's labeled that way and haven't tried it yet. It's also a cream color. Just curious as to if that's the same paint. 

Oh yea...what colors are you going with on the FORD?

Yes, Gary. It is 4638/ Gloss Clear acryl. Your right it looks like a cream color in the bottle but it sprays on clear. Go figure. The 39 Ford will be black and red. I'm guessing at the red because I only have one black and white picture of the car. You can tell the lower color is definitely black but I just have a feeling the upper color is red. Some one will probably come up with a color picture of the car after I am finished to prove me wrong but so be it if that happens. The picture was taken back in 1940 so the chances of a color picture of the car floating around out there are pretty slim.

[Bob P.]

This build is coming along very nice Mark.

I'm learning a lot by following along with this project.
I can't wait to see the finished build.

Bob

[MarkJ]

This build is coming along very nice Mark.

I'm learning a lot by following along with this project.
I can't wait to see the finished build.

Bob

Thanks Bob. I really appreciate the feedback.

[Gary Davis]

Man Mark...that paint on the Olds looks 15mi deep! Is that Testors clear labeled under Model Master ACRYL? I have a 1oz bottle(#4638) that's labeled that way and haven't tried it yet. It's also a cream color. Just curious as to if that's the same paint. 

Oh yea...what colors are you going with on the FORD?

Yes, Gary. It is 4638/ Gloss Clear acryl. Your right it looks like a cream color in the bottle but it sprays on clear. Go figure. The 39 Ford will be black and red. I'm guessing at the red because I only have one black and white picture of the car. You can tell the lower color is definitely black but I just have a feeling the upper color is red. Some one will probably come up with a color picture of the car after I am finished to prove me wrong but so be it if that happens. The picture was taken back in 1940 so the chances of a color picture of the car floating around out there are pretty slim.

Thanks for the info on the clear Mark. I think I'll try it on the Sprintcar build coming up.
Red and Black is going to look killer on that car. Looking forward to seeing pics of that...for sure.

[MarkJ]

Man Mark...that paint on the Olds looks 15mi deep! Is that Testors clear labeled under Model Master ACRYL? I have a 1oz bottle(#4638) that's labeled that way and haven't tried it yet. It's also a cream color. Just curious as to if that's the same paint. 

Oh yea...what colors are you going with on the FORD?

Yes, Gary. It is 4638/ Gloss Clear acryl. Your right it looks like a cream color in the bottle but it sprays on clear. Go figure. The 39 Ford will be black and red. I'm guessing at the red because I only have one black and white picture of the car. You can tell the lower color is definitely black but I just have a feeling the upper color is red. Some one will probably come up with a color picture of the car after I am finished to prove me wrong but so be it if that happens. The picture was taken back in 1940 so the chances of a color picture of the car floating around out there are pretty slim.

Thanks for the info on the clear Mark. I think I'll try it on the Sprintcar build coming up.
Red and Black is going to look killer on that car. Looking forward to seeing pics of that...for sure.

Thanks, Gary. That clear works good, but the key to it is finishing off the process with the future. I really like the process because of the non toxic qualitys of the acryl and also it works well in the heat and humidity down here. I've never had it blush on me. Of course it wouldn't matter if it did because I would polish it out anyway. Yes, I really like red and black together. Thanks again for your input.

[ausbodies]

Hi Mark, I am also building a 38 coupe using a very similar technique to what you have shown here.  You did a far nicer job than I managed on fabricating the grill. 

Mine is good enough for a dirty old stockcar but I was hoping to use it as practice for a nice contemporary street rod and it is nowhere near good enough for that.  I gently bent pieces of thin Evergreen and glued a few in at a time over many nights. Could you please enlighten me on how you achieved such a uniform grill?

Cheers
Alan

[MarkJ]

Hi Mark, I am also building a 38 coupe using a very similar technique to what you have shown here.  You did a far nicer job than I managed on fabricating the grill. 

Mine is good enough for a dirty old stockcar but I was hoping to use it as practice for a nice contemporary street rod and it is nowhere near good enough for that.  I gently bent pieces of thin Evergreen and glued a few in at a time over many nights. Could you please enlighten me on how you achieved such a uniform grill?

Cheers
Alan

Alan, I cut out the area between the fenders and bent it in a little to make it stick out more if you can picture that. I then used .025 evergreen styrene rod and stacked it one on top of the other to achieve the grill. I found a front head on picture of a 38 ford grille and scaled the picture to 1/25 scale to use as a guide. below are some pictures that I hope will help. Thank you for your interest in the build.

[Gary Davis]

Thank you for the heads up on the Clear Mark....Also...this is a Great Tutorial Mark. Your fab work is top notch.

[MarkJ]

Thank you for the heads up on the Clear Mark....Also...this is a Great Tutorial Mark. Your fab work is top notch.

Thanks, Gary. I was going to post pictures of the dash and steering wheel progress, and also, I got the red painted on the body, but "Post Image" said they were temporarily down for maintenance. Hopefully they will be back up and running tomorrow.