65 Fairlane Modified Stocker Buildup

[Marty W]

Another 11 for David's display shelf. Thanks for doing the math on the solder exhaust size. Up to now, I just kind of eyeballed it. Nice to have a point of reference!

[ARCA Guy]

 David, that was way helpful! I thought I knew what I was doing in building models. I have a whole new outlook thanks to the tips on this sweet build!

Thanks Man!!

[Bob P.]

Nice build David and a lot of good information on this build.

Bob

[Brian Conn]

I am new here and have a couple of questions about the 65 Ford modified stocker as I am going to try and see if I can do all these surgical operations. 1)  How much material do you take off of the two attaching posts inside the rear where the chassis attaches to the body? and also what size tubing and solder was used for the exhaust pipes?  Thanks Fordguy

First off from one Ford guy to another, WELCOME!
  Here's what has been working for me as far as adjusting how high or low that body or any body with the interior "attaching post" as part of the body mold.
First do a mock up assembly of the front and rear axle, wheels and tires that you are going to be using for the build.  Depending on your choices, you may have to add material to the wheel wells if the wheel well opening are too large for the tires that you are using and visa versa if the tires are larger than what will properly fit in the wheel well opening.  Once that part is behind you, then determine how much you need to remove to channel the body down on the frame.  You may also have to remove some of the engine fire wall to get the body to sit down like you want as well.  With the complete front and rear axle mock up in place(rear axle, wheels and tires)  use that as a visual guide to determine just how much you wish to lower the body.  I have made templates out of paper to represent the wheel well openings for various wheel bases using the larger wheel well openings found on dirt cars.  The distance from the front of the wheel well to the rear of the wheel well measures 36 mm. in 1:25 scale (36" on a 1:1 scale dirt stock car) if that helps you any.     
  Take your time and be patient...remove aprox. 1/16th of and inch at a time and then position the body...like David said, if you remove too much you can also add it back on.
  Keep in mind that if you use a kit supplied roll cage, the cage may be too tall.  To remedy that simply drill holes the same diameter as the roll bar thru the floor where the 4 points of the main cage come in contact with the floor once you have determined where you want it located and push the 4 points of the main cage thru those holes and adjust the height of the main cage to fit inside the roof area by simply moving it up or down.  Once the cage height has been established, simply cut off any of the roll bars that are protruding thru the underside of the car and glue in place.             

[Fordguy01]

Thanks for all the info on the 65 Fairlane build.  I am currently getting every thing together to start the build but right now I have a couple other builds going on but I hope to get going on this in a couple of weeks.  By the sway I am working on a box stock 69 Dodge Super bee for the club theme and the other car I'm working on is a 35//36 Chevy sedan modified from Early Racing Classics (wife got it for me several years ago for B-day or Fathers day don't remember which).  It is sitting on a slammer frame with a SB Chevy from the AMT 70 Camaro kit using a deep sump oil pan and high rise intake from Ron Coon resins, these pieces are really nice and fit that engine like glove the only mod I had to make was to file/sand down the motor mounts on the engine.  Thanks fore the warm welcome Brian I  hope to get some photos of my work some time in the future.  Again, thanks for the info.  P.S. if you guys haven't tried any of Ron Coon's resin I strongly urge you to do so.  Everything I have from him is nice and smooth and easy to work with.

Al