Completed Verlin Eaker 64 Plymouth

[vsrn]

Mark J -

When you buy Cartograph or other commercially available decals, the white layer and color layers are all together as one piece. The old ALPS printers could also do that. Since they were already out of production when I started doing decals, I chose to use two separate layers using laser printers. For David's info, my whites are pure white - I don't use light gray, although some people have done that.

This means that you have to put the white layer on your model, let it dry completely, and then apply the color layer on top, and align the two layers properly.

David uses decal setting solution to get the decals to lay down. I use Future Floor Wax instead. Using a custom made application tool ( a finger ), smear some Future where you want the decal to go. then, while the Future is still wet, put the decal in place, and smooth the decal out with a damp paper towel or rag.
Get the bubbles out from underneath the decal, and wipe off any excess. Let dry completely.
Then repeat the process for the color layer on top.

David is correct - the smaller white decals in a single layer, seem to stand out, even on bright or dark paints.
The larger while decals generally need two layers to look good, and sometimes even three layers to look excellent. Your mileage may vary :-)

Thanks,
Greg Holland
vsrn

[MarkJ]

Mark J -

When you buy Cartograph or other commercially available decals, the white layer and color layers are all together as one piece. The old ALPS printers could also do that. Since they were already out of production when I started doing decals, I chose to use two separate layers using laser printers. For David's info, my whites are pure white - I don't use light gray, although some people have done that.

This means that you have to put the white layer on your model, let it dry completely, and then apply the color layer on top, and align the two layers properly.

David uses decal setting solution to get the decals to lay down. I use Future Floor Wax instead. Using a custom made application tool ( a finger ), smear some Future where you want the decal to go. then, while the Future is still wet, put the decal in place, and smooth the decal out with a damp paper towel or rag.
Get the bubbles out from underneath the decal, and wipe off any excess. Let dry completely.
Then repeat the process for the color layer on top.

David is correct - the smaller white decals in a single layer, seem to stand out, even on bright or dark paints.
The larger while decals generally need two layers to look good, and sometimes even three layers to look excellent. Your mileage may vary :-)

Thanks,
Greg Holland
vsrn

Greg, how did you get the blue background to match the color of the car on the white sheet?

[vsrn]

Mark J -

That's easy - I didn't   

That's the color of the paper backing on the blank decal paper as it comes from the manufacturer!
However, I beat them over the head for years, trying to convince them to make a blue backing
available. It used to be that you could buy decal paper with a blue background. Then the paper supplier went out of business, so blue backed decal paper disappeared. Finally, somebody else must have asked them about it also, and since it wasn't just one crazy guy bugging them, they thought that maybe there was a market for it...

The being said, I did ask David for a paint sample, so that I could match the body color with the numbers.
There's no trick to doing that - just a lot of grunt work... And I have a lot of experience grunting :-)

Greg Holland
vsrn

[MarkJ]

Mark J -

That's easy - I didn't   

That's the color of the paper backing on the blank decal paper as it comes from the manufacturer!
However, I beat them over the head for years, trying to convince them to make a blue backing
available. It used to be that you could buy decal paper with a blue background. Then the paper supplier went out of business, so blue backed decal paper disappeared. Finally, somebody else must have asked them about it also, and since it wasn't just one crazy guy bugging them, they thought that maybe there was a market for it...

The being said, I did ask David for a paint sample, so that I could match the body color with the numbers.
There's no trick to doing that - just a lot of grunt work... And I have a lot of experience grunting :-)

Greg Holland
vsrn

So your printer prints white ink on blue paper??   I am totally confused now. 

[vsrn]

Yes. I print the white decals on the blue backed paper, just so that the white decals are easier to see
when cutting them up to apply them. The decals themselves are white. It's just the backing paper that is blue.

I could just print them on the conventional white backing paper, and actually have, when I ran out of the blue paper.

Greg Holland
vsrn

[MarkJ]

Thanks, Greg. Now I understand.

[BobD]

I haven't been on the site for awhile - happy to see the completed Eaker machine!  A real sharp-looker and  informative tutorial.  The firewall detail must've been a real headache!  A question - were those PPP rear rims, and if so, how & with what tools did you re-work them? 

[Bob P.]

Another excellent replica build David and a nice set of decals from Greg. Great job guys.

Bob

[Lefturns75]

Super nice job David.  Your firewall work in the door area is top notch....and the rest of it too!   I bet that thing was a beast on the track in its day.  By the way, I told you so....Hehehehehe!

[MarkJ]

David, You've done it again. Another fabulous replica from your bench. The detail is off the charts, and the paint and decal work, as well as the awesome decals by Greg, are all top notch.

[sentsat71]

That came out GREAT, David.....!!!!!!!!!!!!

[ARCA Guy]

Another masterpiece! Nice job my friend!

[Gary Davis]

GREAT job on this replica build David. I have always liked that body style. As always...your fab work is top notch...

[Marty W]

Very nice work on the Plymouth, David! The '64 is one of my favorite years for the Plymouth.

[Dirtman]

Yup, another super job David, keep'em coming!

Rett